Autumn Scenery of the Western Sichuan Plateau (03)——Xiangcheng Baizangfang

Keywords: Bai Zangfang, Shambhala Tibetan Township Pastoral Scenic Area, Qingde Pastoral Tibetan Township

2021.10.21-22

Our next stop, which is also the main point of this trip, is Daocheng Yading Scenic Area. Looking at the weather forecast, the probability of rainfall in the Aden Scenic Area on the afternoon of the 22nd is 75%, and good weather will only start on the 23rd. Going to Daocheng Yading requires good weather , so on the way to Daocheng on the 21st, we diverted and went to a rural town adjacent to Daocheng to stay for one night.

Xiangcheng is a county in the southwest of the Western Sichuan Plateau. It is a Tibetan area and has characteristics not found in general Tibetan areas. Among them, the most well-known ones are the three wonders of rural areas: Sangpi Ancient Temple, Bai Zangfang and Crazy Dress. Since I know very little about religion, I am naturally not very interested in temples and often only look at their appearance. There is a kind of Tibetan clothing in Xiangcheng, which is made of yak down and is unique to Xiangcheng. Because of its bold unrestrained design and bright colors, it is easy to remember for tourists, so it was named "Crazy Dress" in Chinese. But the crazy costume is only worn during festivals, so there is no chance to see it. Therefore, the only remaining one is Hakuzobo.

Traditional Tibetan houses have adobe walls, while houses in Xiangcheng use a special kind of soil from Xiangcheng Mountain to make white slurry on the basis of adobe walls, put it into a device and pour it down from the wall to make the wall into white. Locals told us that whitening paste needs to be poured once a year to make the house as white as new. Bai Zangfang spread all over Xiangcheng County has become a unique scenery in Tibetan areas.

Before reaching the county town, you can already see the white Tibetan houses scattered on the hillsides and in the valleys. The modern buildings in the county town are also mainly white, coexisting harmoniously with the traditional white Tibetan houses and having a unified style. Layers The white buildings echo the golden temples on the mountain, which is spectacular and impressive.

Bai Zangfang is located throughout the countryside and cities.

Bai Zangfang in the mountain col

The layers of white buildings at the foot of the mountain echo the golden temples on the mountain.

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On the 22nd, we set off from Xiangcheng County to Daocheng Yading Scenic Area. There is Qingde Town more than ten kilometers out of the city. The local government has built a Qingde Tibetan Township pastoral scenic area here. The tourist sign on the side of the highway reads "Shambhala Tibet." Rural Scenic Area". "Shambhala" means "Shangri-La", paradise, what a beautiful name.

Qingde Tibetan Township Pastoral Scenic Area

The Qingde Tibetan Township Pastoral Scenic Spot has basically retained the original appearance of the Tibetan countryside, except for a modern-style homestay "Guildyuan" that is incompatible with the atmosphere of the Tibetan countryside. Many houses have the title of "Traditional Village Protected Household". brand. Of course, after being built, this Tibetan village is cleaner and more pleasing to the eye than a traditional village.

In the village, several old men walked slowly slowly past the pagoda , turning tubes Silently turning , the ripe fruit fell silently to the ground. We followed the path and walked in the white color hidden building. Everything was so peaceful.

Peaceful Tibetan Village

Next to the visitor center in the village, there is a painting rich in ethnic characteristics. I met a staff member of the local cultural and tourism department explaining the content of this painting to the guests, and learned that this painting included the three unique features of the countryside, religious stories, folklore, national characteristics and Ethnic customs and so on.

Rural and urban religions, folk customs, etc. are all condensed in this painting

One part of the painting shows the "laughing banquet" unique to rural towns. The Laughter Banquet is very interesting. There is a standing performer sitting around the banquet. The performance is similar to a talk show. The content is to ridicule the shortcomings and shortcomings of someone present, but the person being ridiculed cannot be angry. In addition to its entertainment function, the Laughter Banquet also allows those being ridiculed to reflect on themselves, making it truly educational and entertaining.

A unique laughter banquet in rural areas

After obtaining the owner's permission, our car parked in the dam of "Duoji Folk Residence". The hostess, Duoji Yongzhong, was very warm and friendly to us. Her little daughter Dolma, who has curly hair, got to know us in no time. She is naughty and cute.

Bai Zangfang of Duoji residence

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The hostess of Duoji residence, Duoji Yongzhong, and her little daughter Dolma

Cute little Dolma

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The Duoji family is a representative of the village, and there are some honorary signs hanging on the door. The hostess showed us around her home. Entering the house, the thick log pillars are primitive and simple, and a bag made of animal skin hanging on the wooden pillar is unforgettable. The first floor is a library built by a Beijinger. The hostess said that the cadres from above often hold meetings here when they come down.

Original and simple library

This bag is unforgettable

The house has three floors. It is wood The structure and interior utensils are very exquisite, and the carvings and paintings are very beautiful.

Inside Dorje's house

Finally, we visited her family’s sutra hall. Before entering the sutra hall, I asked Dorji Yongzhong if ladies could enter the sutra hall, because sixteen years ago when we stayed at a Tibetan’s house in Bamei Town, Daofu County, which is also Garze Prefecture, ladies were not allowed to enter. Of the scripture hall. There is no such limitation here anymore. The Sutra Hall of Duoji’s family surprised me. Her Sutra Hall is like a temple. I never expected that the richness and exquisiteness of Buddha statues, sculptures, paintings, etc. in an ordinary collector's sutra hall could be comparable to that of a temple. The hostess said that the painting alone took more than two years.

The sutra hall of the Duoji family is like a temple

There is a picnic platform in the dam of Duoji's house, and we have a picnic here at noon. The newly purchased 10-meter outdoor extension cord terminal board before this trip came into play. I led the power from the inverter in the car to the picnic table and made lunch with an electric cooker (according to forest fire prevention requirements, Ganzi Prefecture No open flames can be used indoors or outdoors).

Picnic in Tibetan Village

During this period, the hostess kept bringing us fruits and walnuts. Her mother-in-law came back from collecting pears and brought out a bunch of pears for us to eat. The creek next to them was extremely clear. After dinner, Shi Shi and Qiuzhen Maple were washing dishes in the creek. Duoji Yongzhong came over and said that the creek water was cold and asked them to go to her house to wash the dishes with hot water. This family is so so enthusiastic!

The environment was so cozy that during lunch, squirrels hopped on the branches overhead and ripe walnuts fell right onto the picnic table. Duoji Yongzhong said that the mountains here are covered with flowers in March and April every year. We also all have the idea to come back and stay here for a while next year.

Standing on the roof platform of Duoji's house, you can see the clusters of white houses on the surrounding hillsides, half hidden among lush green trees. Man and nature live in harmony, this is Shambhala Township.

Viewing Bai Zangfang from the rooftop platform of Duoji’s house