Travel Notes丨I left my heart in Ganzi

"There is no highest mountain here, but the snow on the top of the mountain remains unchanged all year round. There is no lowest valley in the world, but the water rushing down is equally surging and exciting. High mountains, deep valleys, grasslands, and dense forests are praised by people in Tibetan language Shambhala means the paradise on earth and the fairyland on earth. It is a mythical world in Buddhism and accommodates a vertical drop of more than 6 kilometers in a length of less than 30 kilometers. "/ "Depths of Shambhala". "

(There are many pictures and texts, thank you for reading.)

Hello, Ding Zhen, I came to Ganzi Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture. The scenery is beautiful, but your propaganda is so strong that there were traffic jams everywhere during the National Day. It took me several hours to climb over Zheduo Mountain. But fortunately, the traffic jam is full of beautiful scenery. After all, it is National Highway 318.

*I saw this on the traffic jam, not sure which snow mountain it was.

*Saw this while eating in Xinduqiao

Unlike the mountains in Guangxi or Guizhou, Western Sichuan is more like a paradise (I don’t mean to say anything bad about Guangxi and Guizhou). At the plateau, your body will be exhausted, but your spirit will be highly excited, because you don't know what you will see next second.

In any kind of environment or person, when you first meet and feel the pain of separation, you must have fallen in love with him. / "Along the Seine to Florence"

Honghaizi / Jiaxila

The wind pushed me here, and the snowy mountains caught me again

Altitude 4400m

Honghaizi, also known as Jiaxiala, is 4,400 meters above sea level and 17km away from Kangding Airport. You can see the small mountain system of Siguniang Mountain.

The clouds in the sky are far away on the snow-capped mountains, clustered together, and the wind is strong. The prayer flags are blown as if they will never stop, spreading their wings beside this desolate lake to welcome tourists who will also never stop.

"The lakes on the plateau really seem to have a bit of divinity, and the beauty really seems not to be of this world, and should be left in myths and elegy." / "Zhuyun Cemetery"

Traveling in a hurry and having many worries

They will all be lost in this rough journey

On the road without signal to Xinduqiao, along the winding mountain road, accompanied by the mountain breeze, I watched the sunset sink into the endless wilderness.

The afterglow shines on the high mountains, making autumn more yellow. Among all the yellows, sunset is the heaviest.

Yuzixi / Qumogong

The mountains are endless, vast and speechless

Altitude about 4200m

I made an appointment with the guide to get up early to watch the sunrise in Yuzixi. The alarm clock was set for 5:30, but at 4 o'clock in the morning, I suddenly couldn't breathe. I got up to take oxygen. Later I thought it was because the heating was turned on too much and the windows were not opened.

After driving for more than an hour, I saw the sunrise shortly after getting off the car. But it was so cold that when I pressed the shutter several times, my fingers were frozen. When I turned on my phone, I saw that it was only 4°C.

While sitting on the chair in front of the tent to rest, I thought I could empathize with Wang Junkai a year ago.

Tagong Grassland

After watching the sunrise, we went to Tagong Grassland. You can ride horses here and rent Tibetan clothes to take photos, but this is the only attraction I would not recommend.

As soon as the car arrives at the parking lot, a group of Tibetans holding horses immediately surround the car and ask you if you want to ride up the mountain. It costs 120 yuan per person for a round trip. You can negotiate the price, and the bargaining is very refreshing. There is no time to choose among the many horses. If he likes it, he will even push you in front of his horse, bend down and start to grab your feet and put them on the horse.

In fact, the nameless grasslands along the way all have such scenery, so there is no need to come here specifically.

*On the way to Tagong Grassland

The child who helped me lead the horse asked me to take two pictures for me as soon as I reached the top of the mountain. After taking the picture with his mobile phone, he took a picture with his camera. He squatted down and lifted it up again. He was so dedicated that I was embarrassed to check it immediately in person. , I had to pretend to be very trusting. Then we said we wanted to dismount and take two pictures, and he said: But we are about to go down the mountain, so hold on to the reins.

Lenggacuo

Lack of love is okay, but lack of oxygen is not okay

Altitude about 4700m

I'm a bit embarrassed to use this as a subtitle because I haven't met her at all.

Lenggacuo is a natural lake on the edge of Gongga Mountain, similar to the Honghaizi mentioned above.

There are two routes to Lenggacuo:

· Shangmuju Route

Horse riding up the mountain costs 220 yuan per person and takes about an hour and a half to reach the lake.

· Shangchiji West Village Route

Four-wheel motorcycles cost 200 yuan per person. When you get off the motorcycle, you need to climb to the top of the mountain. After climbing to the top of the mountain, you need to climb down again to reach the lake. The whole journey takes about one and a half hours.

In Tibetan tradition, Mani stones engraved with scriptures or Buddha images are regarded as sacred objects and a symbol of people's prayers for happiness and health. People think that stone engraved scriptures are a great merit. (For details, please see the third episode of the documentary "Deep Shambhala". The progress bar is pulled to 30:40.)

*Yala Snow Mountain on the road

*There are three fire source clearance points in the village, and you need to hand in your lighters

*Probably few people/clear road

*Lojang Reflection B&B

We took the route to Chiji West Village. Before setting off, I thought 200 yuan/person was very expensive, but when I returned to the foot of the mountain, I realized that it was worth it. The mountain road to Lenggacuo was developed bit by bit by the villagers of this village. It is said that the road will not be paved and repaired until next year. It is currently much more difficult than the route to Muju, but the scenery in the village is so beautiful.

Before setting off to go up the mountain, I took a photo with the two brothers from the B&B. They were very happy. I asked him if he wanted to bring a scarf? Do you want to wear a woolen hat? Is my down jacket thick enough? My ten-year-old brother said: It’s a bit too thick. So I gave up my scarf and woolen hat and headed up the mountain.

When we arrived at a transfer station, we had to transfer to a motorcycle, which took about 15 minutes. The local road construction level is only about 10%. It may only be a small opening, but it is shaking all the way up.

After getting off the motorcycle, I still had to climb up for about 15 minutes. I couldn't climb to the top. The wind was very strong on the mountain. I needed to take a breath of oxygen to walk ten steps. I couldn't see Gongga. I calmly accepted that I was a very mediocre person. people. When I came here, I saw many large mani piles on the roadside. I followed the trend and built a small one on the mountainside. I hope it will still be there next time. After all, if you take the stones from other people's mani piles, you will be cursed. , forget it if the wind blows it down.

The young man who drove me down the mountain was only 19 years old. Just before he was about to be flown out, I asked him if there was any cross-country motorcycle race held in the village. He said no. He also said that if I call him next time I come, he will take me up for free. , before I had time to say yes, the car suddenly stopped and threw me out of the car. Before he could stand still, he drove back to the mountain to pick up people.

*Too greedy, I want to shoot film and digital, I want telephoto and I want daily

I don’t lack oxygen, who does?

*It’s cold outside, there are many people in the car and it’s crowded, and the windows are fogged up

*The view from the trunk

We were in a group. In addition to the three of us, there was another boy. We made an agreement before going up the mountain that we would go down the mountain together when it was getting dark. Since we couldn't climb to the top of the mountain and there was no signal on the mountain, we couldn't contact him. The three of us returned to the foot of the mountain at nearly 7 o'clock in the evening and sat next to the fire to wait for this little friend until 9 o'clock. During this period, every time I got off a car, I would ask if I had seen a boy wearing a blue jacket and carrying a gray schoolbag on the top of the mountain. Coincidentally, there was a person in the car in question who was dressed exactly as we described him. His companion grabbed his schoolbag and pulled him to us and asked: Is it him?

At 9 o'clock, everyone in the motorcycle camp above had finished their work and came down. Looking from the bottom of the mountain to the mountain, the motorcycle lights were connected together. People who had just finished working gathered around the fire to keep warm. The lighters that had been confiscated during the fire prevention period were thrown into the fire with a bang.

We were probably the last few who stayed at the foot of the mountain until nine o'clock before the tourists arrived. Several villagers came to say hello to us. When they learned that we were waiting for someone, they comforted us and told us how many times they had taken them up on motorcycles. How many times will it be carried down without missing a single person? I was also asked if I thought the scenery above was beautiful. I could only say with great embarrassment that I hadn’t climbed to the top yet, but the scenery halfway up was already very beautiful.

*Gongga blocked by the sea of ​​clouds, photos stolen from group member wbn

"Gongga is more beautiful. When I saw it for the first time, I felt like crying. Every time I see it, I feel very peaceful inside."

I thought it was an exaggeration in the novel, but it turns out that some people really want to cry when they see Gongga Snow Mountain.

Gongga has always been there, and only those who have regrets will miss it.

Later, when I was waiting for my companion to take pictures of the starry sky, I looked up and saw two shooting stars, and I quickly made a wish that the road here would be repaired soon.

*This is a picture of the Milky Way taken by wbn stepping into a ditch

We had dinner at a B&B in the village. The boss was very enthusiastic and kept bringing out beer, saying that we should have a few sips together. I kept thinking about Wang Junkai’s advice: You can’t drink on the plateau, you can’t drink on the plateau. But after taking a closer look, I saw that it was produced in Huizhou, Guangdong. I felt that the alcohol content was very low, so I clinked glasses with everyone enthusiastically.

p.s. Here are two B&Bs on Line B in Lenggacuo:

Lenggatso Lojang Reflection Bed and Breakfast

Langgacuo Yunwushanju Inn

Langgatsoden Zhenjia Tibetan style residence

(You can send me a private message to recommend the guide and the contact information of the B&B.)

I don’t know if any of you have the sequelae of travel, but you start to feel lost after returning home. But as long as my down jacket remains in the open suitcase, my soul has not yet returned to work.

It seems that nothing was left for me in the past two days. All I took home was a few hundred photos, a hada that the guide presented to us when we returned to Chengdu, a beer bottle cap from Guangdong, and something I accidentally bumped while warming myself by the fire at the foot of the mountain. There were two bruises on the calf of the wooden bench.