Scenery that has never been seen before - Travel notes of Meide Village in Congjiang Dong Village, Qiandongnan, Guizhou

Then we entered the mountains and walked to Meide Village in Congjiang Dong Village in southeastern Guizhou.

Different from the mountains in the south, which are lush and green, exuding elegance and beauty, and also different from the mountains in the northwest, which are vast and majestic, showing deep magnanimity, the mountains here have a unique temperament between the two, like a close friend. An old friend, not showy or coy, just waiting quietly for you to come. From the foot of the mountain, along the winding mountain road, winding up, you can often see it at the foot of the mountain or on the roadside, stealing a small area to cultivate a green field, and the deep mountains and old forests suddenly have the smell of human fireworks.

 

After driving for about 40 minutes, we arrived at the halfway point of the mountain, where we arrived at the place known as the "Granary on the Clouds".

 

This is a pure wooden building, with the front leaning against the mountain and the back protruding from the mountainside, leaning against the dense bamboo forest. This large five-story house relies on the wisdom of the ancients. The main body is entirely made of local fir wood and is built with a mortise and tenon structure without the need for nails or iron. The straight and straight cedar trees are always good materials for construction. The pillars of this roof beam are several thick cedar trees, which extend from the foundation to the roof. According to the male owner Chuan Hui, such a huge fir tree must be between 20 and 30 years old. The village only found part of it, and some others were purchased from neighboring villages. Most of the neighboring villages are of the Dong and Miao ethnic groups. Whenever any family needs construction work, they will always help each other. What is particularly distinctive is that these giant sequoia trees with top beams are all marked with directions. This is their original location. They were marked before logging, and they are still arranged according to their original locations after being transported here. The whole house is neither painted nor powdered, seeking originality and simplicity, retaining its original appearance. The texture of fir can be felt on the skin, and the unique fragrance of fir permeates the heart. Trees also have spirits, and everything is as new as before. Those who rely on the mountains and eat from the mountains have already poured the spirit of reverence for nature into their daily lives. This is their belief and their worldliness.

granary on the clouds

 

At noon, after taking a short break after dinner, we went into groups to explore the village. According to the local customs, it is divided into four groups: architecture, water system, clothing and plants. Each person can choose one of them. I chose the plant group, and the group followed the leader, looking for paths in the grass, and then got into the terraced fields in the mountains. Along the veins of the mountain, the terraces are stacked in layers, but when one is among them, the clear layers seen in photos taken from the air cannot be felt at the time. I just feel that along the slope of the hillside, the fields are scattered here and there, and when the ridges of the fields wind around, there is another field.

 

 

Meide Village is located in a transitional landform between hills and mountains. Fertile fields and water sources are scarce. Each so-called field is actually no more than the size of a palm, and most of the crops grown are drought-resistant crops. However, while the environment limits living conditions, it also inspires the wisdom of survival. By virtue of the staggered space, limited resources are utilized to the maximum extent. Along the way, we saw pumpkins, corns, cucumbers, beans, lettuce and other crops, all of which were growing quite gratifyingly.

 

After dinner, the working group's small meeting was completed, and it was almost late at night. Go out and walk to a slightly higher open area and look up at the night sky. A golden full moon rose from the treetops, and the Big Dipper was faintly visible. The slight breeze dissipates the heat of the day, the cicadas chirp, and the stars and moon accompany each other, making it so comfortable.

 

starry sky

The next day, the exciting event "Begging" came on stage.

Begging is a local folk custom. In fact, it is to exchange talents with villagers for food. According to Chuanhui, this activity originated from the hard times in the past. It was difficult for the family to raise the children alone, so they moved from house to house and relied on the little support from neighbors to barely support it. It is said that a thousand families have clothes and a hundred families have food. Fortunately, survival depends on the merits of begging. Although they have long since escaped from hunger and cold, begging has been retained as an activity with ceremonial significance in order to let future generations appreciate this strong nurturing grace and remember that material resources are hard to come by.

Begging is mainly a children's activity. After learning a few daily Dong words to say hello and a Dong folk song, Frog Song, the children went into groups. As a parent volunteer, I went with Group B. The first family we visited was an old woman with two children. The house is not small, but it is extremely simple. Although it cannot be said to be a bare house, looking around the whole house, except for three or two simple wooden cabinets and four or five shabby leather sofas of different styles, there is nothing else. Although the old lady was not good at words, she came in and out of the kitchen again and again, delivering pickled vegetables, corn and glutinous rice. In a slightly reserved way, she expressed her simple generosity and enthusiasm, which made people's hearts warm and had a special taste.

But this feeling does not belong to the children. They laughed and laughed along the way, or went deep into their homes, or "waited" at the intersection for the villagers picking vegetables and coming down the mountain. With the frog songs they had just learned and their good manners, they made their way to the world. In exchange for rich food, return home with a full load.

Waiting while begging

 

 

Dinner was at a wild camp, with lotus leaves as bowls, straw stalks as chopsticks, grass as mats, the sound of the piano melodious, and the aroma of barbecue. Although there is no wine to cheer up, it is a pleasure to look up at the stars, invite the bright moon in my heart, and relax between heaven and earth.

 

 

Left: Begging activity | Right: Dinner at the wild camp

 

 

 

On the third day, I visited Congjiang County during the day, returned to the village at night, and watched three videos.

 

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A story about Chuan Hui Fengying and his wife returning to their hometown to start a business. The two wandered in a foreign country for more than ten years, but finally decided to return home because of a heart-breaking question from their daughter on the phone, "Mom, if I didn't have you in my childhood, what would I be like when I grow up?" After all, they have been living in big cities for many years and have work experience in public welfare organizations. With a simple and broad mind and tolerance like a mountain, they care about nature, take root in the soil, dig deep into unique resources, form a wide range of cooperation alliances, seek slowness and refinement, and polish with heart. The cause of "freedom and dignity". They stick to their original intention of seeking profits rather than pursuing profits, and there is almost no sense of commercial atmosphere. Although there are goods for sale, the furnishings are extremely low-key, and the owner has not mentioned a word from the beginning. The elegant and natural indigo tie-dye, the "mother's taste" that cares for children, the deep and warm Dong cultural ecological tour, and the far-reaching seed museum are all masterpieces made by his team.

The fir house we live in (Picture 1: Exterior view | Bottom: Interior | : Night view)

 

tie dye

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A record of the construction process of Yunshang Granary. Every sand, every stone, every wood and every tile, after years of hard work by many people, the five-story building was able to rise from the ground among the deep mountains and bamboo forests. It was not easy to open up the mountains and forests through the blue and blue roads.

 

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A recording of a small choir composed of local mothers and children participating in a classic chant. The Little Chorus has a story. Fengying introduced the origin of the Little Chorus. Most of the local children are left-behind children, and the Dong people are good at humming. During their lonely childhood, they could only express their feelings through songs, and music became the best companion. After Fengying returned to her hometown, she organized a small singing group and became the spiritual home of the children. It is precisely because of this that the singing of the small chorus brings out different emotions.

 

The singing repertoire is Daoxiangfengnian, which is divided into two parts. The first part is Dong language ballad Frog Song, and the second part is based on Jiaxuan's famous poem "Xijiang Moon·Night Walk on the Yellow Sand Road". In a summer mountain village, rice flowers are fragrant and frogs are singing. This same mood has transcended thousands of years of time and space, breaking through the boundaries between the government and the public, and perfectly blending the two together, as if they were originally one. So natural and harmonious. Children's voices are clear and crisp, just like the sound of nature coming out of a deep valley or pearls falling on a jade plate. It does not need to be decorated or carved, but it has the natural power to directly touch people's hearts.

 

The most impressive person is Xiao Linlong, who is said by the host Xiao Sa to be "born with an indifferent temperament". Xiao Linlong was only five years old before participating in the show a year ago. On the first day when we were exploring the village in groups, Xiao Linlong was in the plant group with me and followed me all the way. He was sensible and well-behaved and liked by everyone.

At the bamboo forest at the entrance of the village, I praised him and said, "You are very powerful. You have appeared on a CCTV program at such a young age." A shy look suddenly appeared on his face, and he sighed lightly and said, but failed. Between the words, there was a hint of disappointment that could not be concealed. My heart trembled, and I immediately comforted him and said, most people will never have the opportunity to be on CCTV in their lives. You have been on CCTV at such a young age. You are already very powerful and successful! He nodded with some understanding, and immediately became cheerful again.

 

Seed Museum

On the morning of the fourth day, we went to the Drum Tower to make reed flutes and listen to the village elders talking about history.

 

First, make the reed flute. The reed flute is a national musical instrument made of bamboo. The complete reed flute has a bamboo tube inside a bamboo tube. It is quite complicated. This time we only made a small section of the bamboo tube at the front. The village elder who led the production is a national inheritor of this craft. He first demonstrated the production process. The only tool used is a sickle. First, select a thick bamboo branch, cut a small section next to the bamboo joint at one end, and remove the bamboo joint at the other end to leave a hole, which is about ten centimeters long. Then start the knife three centimeters away from the bamboo joint, and flatten it slightly in the direction of the bamboo joint. Use the blade of the knife to gently scrape it repeatedly until bright light can be seen when looking in from the hole. Then use the force of your finger to lift the knife again and gently lift up a small piece. A strip of small holes is exposed, which is the air inlet. Finally, randomly pick a thin bamboo silk on the bamboo body, stuff it with bamboo slices to make sure the airflow is smooth, and a simple reed flute is completed. Hold the air inlet in your mouth, collect the air and exert force to make a sound. The reed flute can be long or short, thick or thin, and small holes can be dug into the flute body. Depending on the length, thickness and number of small holes in the flute body, it can produce a rich range of sounds and varied tunes. The long and thin ones are simple and melodious, while the short and thick ones are deep and vigorous, each with its own charm.

 

After the village elder's demonstration, everyone was eager to try it. After listening to Chuanhui's explanation of the precautions, they all picked up their sickles, looked for a safe corner, and started working individually. Making the reed flute seems simple, but it requires a lot of skill on the wrists and fingers. Most people tried and failed, but in the end they asked the village elders to process them one by one, and everyone achieved success. So, we went up to the stage and played the reed flute together. Although we were newbies, we couldn’t say much about the tunes, but the music was far-reaching and the sheng songs were loud and memorable.

Play the reed flute

After the song was played, everyone sat around the drum tower and listened to the village elders talking about history. It turns out that the local Dong ancestors originally lived in Foshan. In order to open up a new living space and avoid war and exclusion, they moved westward, passing through Liuzhou, Wuzhou, upstream, and finally hid in the mountains. The original meaning of the Dong people is "people who live in a place that is blocked by mountains and covered by forests." The ancestors of the Dong people have traveled far and wide, taking root in the wilderness, far away from the bustling city, and far away from wars and battles. Although it is difficult, but with hard work and bravery, They opened up wasteland and cultivated soil, recuperated and multiplied to this day. According to the village elder, there are no ups and downs or thrilling plots, but once involved in history, the feeling of time is immediately injected into the flesh and blood. Those ordinary faces and tough bodies, although they have never been It has not been recorded in the annals of history for people to pay tribute to, but it seems to be overcoming thorns and wading through mountains and rivers. It comes slowly and vividly from ancient times and approaches in front of you. Therefore, it adds a bit of emotion without realizing it.

                                                

Drum Tower

 

There was a grand party in the evening. After lunch, the host, actors and staff of each program divided up and made preparations. The venue decoration was led by Dong children and was simple and unique. Tie-dyed blue handkerchiefs were hung up, giving them a unique elegance. The benches were filled with flowers and wild grasses, which set off the background and added interest; the actors, big and small, were rehearsing nervously; the four young hosts also divided into two groups, Negotiating the process, finalizing and getting familiar with the lines. After the thanksgiving banquet, before you knew it, night fell. The young hosts Qiqi, Xinran and Huangdou, dressed in Dong costumes and lightly applying pink and white, made a shining appearance and kicked off the party. Mothers, fathers, children, and friends of the Han and Dong ethnic groups, after you sing, I will appear on the stage. There will be solos, choruses, dances, poetry recitations, cross talk, magic, and a lot of good shows. There will be bursts of laughter and applause. Celebrating together, both host and guest enjoy themselves.

 

What is particularly touching is that the mothers and children of the Dong ethnic group moved the CCTV program to the scene and sang the Dong ethnic song "Daoxiangfengnian" as the finale. In the second half of the song, Fengying quietly turned her head, and when she looked back, there were tears in her eyes, and there was light in the tears. This song must have sneaked into the softest corner of her heart more than once. She once mentioned that there are many difficulties in returning to hometown to start a business. Many young parents are forced to pack their bags again after returning to their hometown for a short period of time and travel to other places to explore the world. Xiao Linlong's parents are one of them, and Xiao Linlong, like other children, has once again joined the flood of left-behind children. Fengying said that Xiao Linlong liked to collect small stones, calling them gems, and begged adults to help him sell them, saying that his parents would come back when he had saved up a thousand yuan. We were deeply touched. Little Huangdou raised his hands on the spot and shouted, "I buy it! I buy it!" The children echoed, creating a heartwarming scene.

 

Dong people's song "The fragrant rice is fragrant and the harvest is good"

The good season in the mountains has suddenly passed for five days.

 

On the last day, I got up early and looked out from the fourth floor platform. I saw mist and billowing clouds. The dense sea of ​​clouds is light and light, elegant and flowing, hazy, like smoke, mist and gauze. It seems that you can see through the green mountains behind. It seems both real and dreamy, constantly tempting your eyes to peek into the half-hidden scenery. But the dreamlike clouds and smoke refuse to dissipate for a long time. They are layer by layer, preventing you from seeing through them.

 

 

A few children also got up, and I invited them, let’s go up the mountain and see the sea of ​​clouds! But children don’t understand romance, so they invite me to go and catch butterflies! So, I went downstairs with them, followed the mountain road, and chased the butterflies by the grass and field ridges. Butterflies flutter among the fields and trees, sometimes low and sometimes high, sometimes near and sometimes far away. Watching the children running and jumping in the wilderness, waving their hands, their happy faces passing through the moss-marked green earth walls, contrasting with the mottled light and shadow cast by the sun, I feel that time is meaningful and the world is worth it.

 

 

After lunch, it was time to say goodbye. Xiao Huangdou impromptuly wrote a text message to Xiao Linlong, left his address, invited him to come to Guangzhou to get together, exchanged gifts, and said goodbye. The host prepares large duck eggs for each guest, which are placed in a net woven with long red threads and hung around your neck, symbolizing peace and auspiciousness. Friends of all ages were reluctant to leave, sending blessings to each other and taking photos. Influenced by the atmosphere of the scene, I couldn't help but hid my head in the clouds and virtues. I recited two sentences on the spot, "There is a fairyland in the clouds, and virtues are in the world" to express my inner feelings.

 

Farewell Gift: Big Duck Egg

 

 

 

After returning to Guangzhou, Xiao Huangdou watched the CCTV program of the Little Chorus over and over again, chanted "The Fragrance of Rice and Harvest Harvest" over and over again, and asked Xiao Linlong over and over again when he would come to Guangzhou.

 

 

Guizhou Residence: Fir House (Day and Night Views)

He wrote another poem "Guizhou Scenery Travel": "Purple butterflies fly among the blue grass and flowers, and meteors fall on the bright moon and dark night; so why crush the green snake? Who would set up a monument for nature?" The first two sentences describe the beautiful scenery of the place. , the last two sentences express his grief over encountering a little green snake being run over by a car and his love for nature.

 

 

I would also think of that ancient village where old women and children were left behind from time to time, imagining that the young people saying goodbye in a hurry and weeping to their wives and children was just one of the thousands of farewell stories.

 

I also imagine that these children will receive the surprise of seeing their long-lost parents on the way to the creek bridge under the setting sun on a beautiful evening, amidst the fragrance of rice and the sound of frogs.

 

How many young parents and children spend their youth and passion in the noisy metropolis, but leave their thoughts and concerns in the quiet mountain village. They fight for love by giving up love, which is both moving and admirable.

 

We have left there, but there are so many affectionate expectations there. These strands of affection, like the long reed instrument, echo in the clouds and the world for a long time. It is a scenery that we have never left ……