Daocheng Aden Travel Notes 03: From Xinduqiao to Daocheng

Regretis part of traveling. We always want to see the most beautiful scenery without missing anything, but we always miss some because of this and that, and we feel regretful. This is the same as life. There is never the smoothest path, and it is impossible to experience all the beauty. Whether experienced, omitted, or made mistakes, they are all part of the journey. It is also because of imperfections that travel becomes complete.

Haruki Murakami once coined the word "small happiness", which is small and certain happiness, lasting from 3 seconds to a day. In fact, as long as we have seen a beautiful scenery, even if it only brings us a few seconds of wonder and wonderful feeling, it is still happiness that does exist, and let us cherish it doubly. What's more, our eyes and hearts can't stop along the way. God has given us so many beautiful things, which makes me feel very luxurious.

Well, we didn’t see the true face of Kangding clearly in the night, and it was also dark when we passed the magnificent Zheduo Mountain. When we arrived at Xinduqiao, a photography paradise, we could only vaguely see the dim lights on both sides of the road, and those beautiful scenery. What does it matter if everything is shrouded in darkness? It is precisely because of these shortcomings that "little luck" and "big luck" are even more precious.

Early on the next morning, when we were preparing to set off for another day's drive to Daocheng, the morning fog on the mountains ahead was gradually dissipating, and the bright sunshine began to creep up. Several nearby poplar trees also began to show golden color. Standing here at an altitude of 3300, the air is very thin, but also very fresh. Take a deep breath, and a hint of coolness gradually enters your throat and sinks into your heart, making you feel refreshed. I couldn't help but pick up my phone and take the first oil painting-like photo after reaching the plateau. From this moment on, I completely left all the worldly worries and depression that had been lingering in my mind for the first two days out of my mind. The complicated affairs in the company and factory that had troubled me for a long time and made me feel uncomfortable finally left me in my heart.

From here on, some of the group members gradually began to experience varying degrees of altitude sickness. I have climbed over 3500 meters many times and also been to Tibet. I know my background and have never taken altitude sickness to heart. Unless you feel a slight breathlessness when standing up suddenly or walking quickly, there is basically no discomfort. Sitting with me was Sunflower, the Shenzhen girl who lent me the iPhone data cable to charge every day. She is a beautiful and sunny little girl, a nurse, who is engaged in the most sacred profession in the world. She exudes the youthful charm unique to young people, but she is always worried that she will have high reflexes.

Our seats were in the middle of the car, and the windows were closed. Even if both the front and rear transom windows on the roof were opened, there was a blind spot in the middle, and the fresh air could not reach our seats. This made Sunflower and I feel uncomfortable. I tried to keep her calm and try not to think about the high altitude sickness. Some things are like this, if you ignore them, they won't come. The more you care, the more they will come. As an idealist, I always believe that people's thoughts will determine the development of things. Later, Sunflower gradually adapted to this situation, and gradually became much better in the next few days. The conversation between us also had other topics.

In terms of personality, I tend to be serious, not an active person, and I am very slow-tempered. I remember when I was studying for the EMBA, the course was halfway through, and more than half of the classmates in the class didn't know me. When I started to really interact with my classmates, everyone was about to graduate. This kind of character flaw will always neglect the people around you and make others feel very boring. When I realized this problem, I started chatting with Sunflower proactively. From a selfish point of view, this is also for self-liberation.

This day's journey is quite difficult. We need to climb three passes over 4,000 meters. The first one is Gaoersi Mountain with an altitude of 4412 meters.

The top of the mountain is covered with piles of manis built by Tibetans and prayer flags fluttering in the wind. In the mountains in the distance, ice and snow can be seen covering their heads. I seem to have gone back to the first time I went to Tibet 7 years ago. Scenes and pictures like this always make people excited but unable to express their feelings. So, let’s use photos to make up for the paleness of my language.

noon By meal time, we were already in Litang.

Litang is an extremely romantic name in my mind, which stems from my little understanding of the sixth Dalai Lama Tsangyang Gyatso. I once wrote a post about Tsangyang Gyatso and published it on the blog of Tom.com. Later, Tom.com closed the blog business. I always only write directly on the Internet without saving, and those words disappeared. In the vast sea of net, there are no corpses left.

"At that moment, I raised my wind horse,

Not to beg for blessings, just to wait for your arrival.

That day, I closed my eyes in the fragrant mist of the Sutra Hall,

Suddenly I heard the mantra of your chanting.

That night, I listened to Sanskrit singing all night long,

Not for enlightenment, just to find a trace of your breath.

That month, I turned all the prayer wheels,

Not for salvation, just to touch your fingertips.

That year, I bowed my head and embraced the dust,

Not to worship Buddha, just to be close to your warmth.

In that life, I walked around mountains, rivers, and pagodas.

Not to cultivate the afterlife, just to meet you on the way.

White crane in the sky, please lend me your wings. I won’t fly far away, I will only go back to Litang..."

This is one of the most handed down poems by the Sixth Dalai Lama Tsangyang Gyatso. I have slightly modified it.

When I visited the Potala Palace in 2008, apart from the majestic appearance that left a deep impression on people, what left a unique memory were the eight pagodas from the 5th to 13th Dalai Lama in addition to the 6th Dalai Lama. The greatness of the fifth Dalai Lama goes without saying. His successor after his death, the Sixth Emperor, had lived among the people for many years before entering the Potala Palace due to special reasons. At that time, he already had a beloved lover. It is precisely because of this lover that there is no spiritual pagoda for the sixth life in the Potala Palace.

After the 6th Dalai Lama Tsangyang Gyatso entered the Buda Forbidden City, his beautiful lover followed him to Lhasa. The 6th Dalai Lama often went out incognito at night to meet his lover at the Maggie Ami Bar on Barkhor Street next to the Jokhang Temple. During the day, he is the Sixth Dalai Lama who is admired by thousands of people. At night, he is an elegant young man who hangs out in wine shops on the streets.

He said:

“I often think about the face of the Living Buddha, but it never appears before my eyes;

I never thought that my lover’s face would always be reflected in my heart;

Living in the Potala Palace, I am Vidyadhara Tsangyang Gyatso;

Living in Lhasa at the foot of the mountain, I am the prodigal son, Damsang Wangbo. "

One morning, the lama in charge discovered the traces of Cangyang Gyatso's night tour when he went out on the snow, so he followed the traces to find and secretly executed Cangyang Gyatso's lover, and closed Cangyang Gyatso. Legend has it that in 1706, when the 6th Dalai Lama was being escorted to Beijing, he was killed by the Mongolian soldiers who were escorting him by the Qinghai Lake. There is also a theory that he was imprisoned by Emperor Kangxi in the Guanyin Cave in Mount Wutai, where he passed away at the age of twenty-four.

In modern times, the widely circulated song "On the Top of Nadong Mountain" sung by the famous singer Tan Jing was also adapted from the love poem of the sixth Dalai Lama Tsangyang Gyatso.

Tsangyang Gyatso, he is a crying lotus in front of the Buddha...

Litang, because of Cangyang Gyatso, has always fascinated me. At this moment, Litang, the Litang we have seen, is also the most beautiful and romantic:

reason After passing the pond, we got off the 318 National Highway and turned into the Liya Highway (S216) in Daocheng. The newly built two-way asphalt road was in excellent condition, but it was a winding mountain road with steep mountain roads from time to time, with high mountains on one side and cliffs on the other. On the way, we crossed the Tuzi Mountain and Haizi Mountain, and the scenery was endless along the way. For me who is not good at describing the scenery, I'd better just post the photos:

At dusk, we arrived at Daocheng, our destination for the day.

Ten kilometers away from Daocheng County is the famous Red Grassland. To be honest, when I saw this piece of red grassland, which was about one acre, I was very disappointed. I have seen photos of the red grassland many times before, and these photos have almost become a symbol of Daocheng. It can even be said that when I came here, I was tempted by photos of red grass. Today, when I saw its true appearance, I felt like a woman who had been praised to the heavens by a smooth-tongued matchmaker, only to find out that it was a dinosaur when we met.

The red grass nearby has been trampled to the point where no roots are left, and in the distance it is only sparsely stretched in the water, withered and yellow. When someone went down to take pictures, several Tibetan children hugged their legs and shouted for money. Although it doesn't matter if you don't give money, they won't stalk you, but this feeling is very uncomfortable. People who came to Tibet in the early days liked to bring notebooks and pens to Tibetan children out of good intentions, and if they didn’t bring them, they would give them a few dollars. It is this so-called "goodwill" and "good deeds" that indulge these children today. the behavior of. I was worried that if I gave money to one of the children, several children in the distance would gather around me and find it difficult to escape. I insisted on refusing to give money, and finally left this famous grassland with a hint of displeasure and a hint of guilt.